How do you feel about the toxic ingredients used in cosmetics today? The FDA doesn’t regulate anything, and if ingredients are posted, usually they are in a jargon that’s really difficult to read. End result, women put 15 different layers of Parabens, Phthalates, and loads of other unhealthy things unbeknownst to them. I checked your makeup ingredients, and they all seem to be pretty straightforward and fine… unless “Secret Ingredient” happens to be poison, which I doubt. :)

So many people respect your status as a makeup artist (and so much more), I think it would be terribly influential if you wrote an article to promote awareness about what we’re doing to our bodies. -Lauren

Hi Lauren,

The secret ingredient is actually ‘glee’. :) As I got involved in the cosmetic industry, I became very interested in the science behind it. I am not a scientist, but do enjoy reading about new research and any discoveries that might make our cosmetic experiences better & healthier.

The issue you brought up is somewhat controversial. I don’t deify science – in fact, I am convinced it is necessary to question everything as we go along – but do believe in the scientific method. As flawed as it is, it’s the best that we’ve got. Unfortunately, there is a lot of hysteria and un-scientific fluff surrounding the subject of parabens. I would like to offer my honest opinion, and although I don’t expect everyone to agree with me, maybe there’s something useful you’ll find in there.


What are parabens?

Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben & benzylparaben) are preservatives used in most cosmetics, foods and drugs. They are added in very small amounts to prevent the growth of dangerous disease-causing microbes such as bacteria, fungus and mold. To put it simply, makeup would be very dangerous to use without preservatives. The exception is powder cosmetics – they contain no water, and this is exactly why Lime Crime paraben-free eyeshadows are safe.

How dangerous are they?

FDA released this article stating their take on the situation. I recommend that you read it if you really want to understand the issue, but in case you don’t have time, here’s the gist of it:

A 2004 study detected parabens in breast tumors. They discussed this in the context of the weak estrogen-like properties of parabens and the influence of estrogen on breast cancer. However, the study did not show that parabens cause cancer, or that they are harmful in any way. The main criticism was that the researchers failed to compare paraben levels in normal tissue, which may very well contain them as well. No further updates have been available since (what’s taking so long??), but it did prompt further studies.

Parabens have been shown to have much less estrogenic activity than the body’s naturally occurring estrogen. A 1998 study found that the most potent paraben tested in the study, butylparaben, showed from 10,000- to 100,000-fold less activity than naturally occurring estradiol (a form of estrogen). Besides, parabens are used at such low levels in cosmetics, that them causing cancer is extremely, extremely unlikely.

The paraben hysteria

The findings were picked up by the media and the frenzy began. Fear made people jump to conclusions and all sorts of unscientific theories were created. Banning parabens because they were found in tumors would be like banning water because it was present, too – we don’t know for sure yet, and further studies are needed. But the unknown scares people, and companies perceived it as an opportunity to market new products. They were not responding to the findings; they were responding to the panic. This is why the organics/green cosmetics are the hottest sellers right now. I am not saying they have no place in the market or are BS, but a lot of them are heavily relying on the hysteria.

Although Lime Crime does carry mineral-based products, I do not consider us part of the movement. I was attracted to minerals because they allow me to create high-payoff colors and have an added benefit of reduced risk of allergies.


Preservative-free future?

The companies would love to get rid of all preservatives. Unfortunately, it doesn’t look like it’s going to happen any time soon – it is too costly and most importantly, not very safe.  These are some advantages regular cosmetics have over the preservative-free:

  • Longer shelf-life
    They are
    less prone to microbial contamination & can be stored in your makeup purse, instead of a refrigerator.
  • Affordability
    Preservative-free products require a water-free formula or special packaging, which can drive up the price. Good example would be eye drops: preservative-free ones must be put in separate capsules, good only for 1-2 applications. It’s less convenient and lots more expensive, not to mention environmentally-unfriendly.
  • Efficiency
    Most cosmetics require some sort of a preservative, and parabens are currently known to be most efficient. Natural preservatives do exist, but they are more expensive to manufacture and often don’t work as well. In addition, getting a whole new preservative developed is a long and expensive process, with no guarantee it will get on the approved list. Not a lot of companies are willing to dedicate themselves to the cause for this reason.
  • Safety
    Probably the most important reason of them all.
    Preservatives fight the bacteria for us, and it is thanks to them that we can lend our eyeshadow or mascara to our BFF and not risk getting sick. (This not to suggest that you should share personal cosmetics, but you get the point).

The important thing to remember is that everything can be a cure or a poison, depending on the dosage. Drinking too much water will kill you – does this mean that water is bad? We don’t live in a perfect world and must choose our best options. Some of the chemicals used as preservative are toxic in large quantities, but harmless in small amounts. There are much more critical things you can do to avoid cancer – like not smoking, minimizing sun exposure, exercising regularly and eating a low-fat diet rich in fruits & vegetables!

Deerlings: I would very much like to know where you stand. Do you trust in research or practice the ‘better safe than sorry’ approach?