Topsy Turvy Design

A milliner is not someone with a lot of money. It’s someone who makes hats. This forgotten profession rarely lives outside of theater today, which is why it was so exciting to run into Kim Brown-Dye in the vast spaces of the internet. A self-described enthusiast of the past, Kim is the creative mastermind behind Topsy Turvy Design, a small company in Oakland, CA. What she makes, Kim lovingly calls hatties.

Kim, it’s a real pleasure chatting with you. Tell us something interesting about your childhood.
KBD: Growing up, my parents were hippies, so my brother & I had an extremely crafty & progressive upbringing. Most nights & weekends were spent crafting. My mom would crazy quilt, my brother would draw cartoons, and I would make papier-mâché masks & hand-sew tarty little costumes… Bored-with hand sewing, I convinced my mom to teach me how to machine sew on her 1920’s straight-stitch-only Singer at the age of 9. My first project was a replica of the bow-bedecked hat from Madonna’s Borderline video.


Victorian mini tricorn

When did you become interested in historical fashions?
I have always been history obsessed & a bit of an old soul. Growing up in the town of Alameda, CA, I was surrounded by phenomenal architecture. It is rumored that Alameda has more Victorian houses per square foot than any city in the USA. I would often ride my bike past my favorite houses & imagine the grand ladies that used to live there…

My interest in historical fashions really peaked from the ages of 9-14; when I grew enamored with old Hollywood glamour & further obsessed with the Victorian Era. During my high school years, I would incorporate these obsessions into my everyday apparel. I always loved dressing up & the Goth subculture provided an excellent outlet to do so.


Rhinestone top hattie

Why hats?
I went to college for Theatrical Design. I remember being floored that it was an actual college degree. I focused primarily on mask & puppetry design – my first loves. I always adored costume design, but didn’t have the patience for sewing. I found myself wanting to fast forward to the trimming & bedazzling part.

During a post-college internship, I was asked to build hats for a theatrical production of Amadeus. I had to build 3 hats in less than a week. I taught myself the craft through a fabulous book called From the Neck Up by Denise Dreher & I fell head over heels in love. In 2007 Topsy Turvy Design was born.

What does your work space look like?
This is it:


Kim & her beautiful craft space

I’d love it if you let us in on your creative process. How do you do it, what are your favorite materials to work with?
All my hatties are built completely from scratch. I use olde-world buckram & wire construction to build the frameworks, which does limit the possible shapes or silhouettes, but the decorative aspect is infinite… The ideas for my hatties are often born from the materials themselves or inspired by my fabulous customers, models & muses. I love vintage ribbons, trimmings & feathers & use the real deal whenever possible. I also have an extensive library of research books & such which I draw inspiration from.

What do you enjoy the most about your job?
I am very proud to say that I am a full time, self-supporting Milliner. The best part of my job is being able to work at my own pace, at any hour, anywhere. I was never well suited to working for others. To paraphrase my idol P.T. Barnum – any line of work is wrong for me “unless it is of such a nature that my profits may be greatly enhanced by an increase of energy, perseverance, attention to business, tact, etc…”

Naturally, being your own boss comes at a price. For me – it is finding a balance between my business & personal life.Building a business is not for the faint of heart, for in the beginning you are not only the creator, but marketer, accountant & shipper, but I couldn’t see myself doing anything else…


Victorian Day Hat

I hear you take custom orders. Any unusual requests so far?
Actually no – I think since my background is in theatre – no request seams too unusual or too odd! [The fact that she doesn't consider a Snowman hattie the least bit weird is a sign of a true artist! -DD]

As a self-employed person, motivates you to get up in the morning? What inspires you?
My Customers. I get the most delightful feedback & photos from them. I am proud to say that half of my business is from return customers. It is a great motivator.

If you could custom-design a hattie for any contemporary celebrity, who would it be?
Cindy Lauper – hands down. She is a fashion icon & I adore her!

If you could meet any dead famous person, who would it be and what one question would you ask them?
P.T. Barnum – “Can I join your circus?”


Seafaring tricorn

Aside from outstanding quality, what surprised me the most about Topsy Turvy Design is the affordability. Movies pay hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars for accessories of comparable quality and detail – can you believe most of these hatties are priced in the $150-200 range?! Go and see for yourself if you don’t believe me!